What drives the cost
Flooring cost splits into material and labor. Material is priced per square foot of the room, but you don't buy exactly the room's area: cuts, pattern matching, and mistakes mean you buy the area plus a waste allowance, typically 5-20% depending on the material and the room's layout. Labor is priced on the actual area only, since installers charge for the floor they lay, not the extra material sitting in boxes. Removing an existing floor adds tear-out and haul-away labor on top of the install, which is why keeping the existing floor (installing over it, where the material allows) is meaningfully cheaper.
How the ZIP adjustment works
Material prices here are national averages: a box of vinyl plank costs roughly the same delivered to Ohio or California. Installation labor doesn't, so this calculator multiplies the install and tear-out lines by a regional index derived from your ZIP code's first three digits. A factor above 1.0 means installers in that area tend to charge more than the national baseline; below 1.0 means less. It's a planning index built from regional cost patterns, not a live quote from a specific installer, so use it to size your budget rather than to hold a contractor to a number.
Budgeting tips
Get quotes from at least two or three installers before you lock in a budget, and ask each one whether their bid includes furniture moving, baseboard removal and reinstallation, and disposal fees, since those are common places a "low" bid leaves things out. If your subfloor is old or uneven, budget separately for leveling or repair work; it isn't included in the estimate here and can add a meaningful amount once the old floor comes up.